Another day, another country....Sweden this time.

Hi from Stockholm!
Just got here so the photo below of 'me in Stockholm' is about as 'hot off the press' as you can get! :-)

Monday 16/6 - Just a day of travelling in the rain

If you're gonna have a rainy day while you're on holidays, its ideal if you can plan it so that you aren't doing much except sitting in a bus. So we did well as it rained off and on most of the day today as we travelled from Denmark across to Sweden.

We left Copenhagen at 8:30am and by 9:00am we were on the ferry which took us across the water to Sweden. In quiet moments I've thought it might be fun to be a Tour Guide as I like to think I'm a fairly organised person, and also a 'people person' however the few tours I have done have made me change my mind. Just to get 25 people, all the luggage and a huge bus onto a ferry...on time....is stress which I probably don't need. And a conversation with any of them about stuff that has gone wrong leaves one in stitches! [laughs loudly]

Our Tour Guide is called Klaars, and he told us today that once he was taking a tour around Russia, and he and the driver were arrested and taken off to the Police Station....the bus with 35 travellers who don't speak Russian were just left on the side of the road. When he finally got back to them after about 3 hours, he said they had gotten through all their stored food and candy bars and were starting to get worried. ROFL For the ferry, he had made it VERY clear that whatever we were doing at the time the ferry was docking, that it was NOT more important than getting onto the bus. He told the story about a previous trip when a lady decided this was a good time to go to the loo and when she got out, she found that she was on her way back to where they had come from! Took a day to get her back again! So....noooo....I don't think I need that kind of stress at all.

Took a photo out of the bus window of the scenery on the way across the peninsula to Stockholm (see above)....and as you can see, very green and quite flat. There are massive forests of pine, silver birch, elms etc however one thing I've noticed is that unlike Germany, there are very few flowers. No wildflowers, no windowboxes etc. We did see some wild deer though.

Not much to say about a day spent on a bus. There is a guy sitting opposite us who is definitely not going to remember much of the trip. He has read a book the whole way so far and has his head down the whole time. Doesn't look out of the window and doesn't listen to the information from the tour director. Makes one wonder...why? [confused look]

Finally arrived in Stockholm right on rush-hour....to the most amazing traffic problems! Apparently there are roadworks happening and a bridge is out of commission (Stockholm is built on 14 islands) however even in the middle of Rome I did not see such traffic jams. In fact, the German word 'Stau' actually describes it better as it was a total tangle and there were times that intersections were entirely blocked! Mind you, some of the problem might have been a 10metre bus trying to turn left in front of the traffic.... [cheeky grin] Still, we ended up getting out of the bus before the hotel, and walking the short way there as it was a lot quicker. The porters had to walk down the street with their trolleys to retrieve our luggage! :-)

Anyway, we are here now, and all settled in. Took a lovely stroll through the old part of town and had a quick tea then looked through all the lovely shops containing beautiful glass and crystal, and other things that I can't afford. [sigh] Oh well....doesn't cost anything to look!

Tomorrow we are on the ferry in an overnight cabin, so while I keep saying that I'm not sure of internet it has been pretty good up till now. But expecting a ferry to provide WIFI internet access might be a bit much...even for Sweden.

So....I'll be back when I can!

Still in Copenhagen

Hi again,
We are leaving Copenhagen tomorrow so I thought I'd finish off my post about Copenhagen...that and the fact that once again, I'm not sure when internet will be available. Gotta take opportunities as they come!

Fantastic to hear from you Cheryl, and glad to hear you are enjoying travelling with me. I hope you enjoyed Neuschwanstein, especially as you must have found climbing the mountain easier than I did. [grin]

But this is one of those 'It's Tuesday, so it must be Copenhagen' type of tour so from now on we will be really racing around.

Sunday 15/6 - Soaking up Copenhagen
Started the day with a bus tour of the city of Copenhagen. We had a local tour guide called Monika, and she was really good. Not only did she know her stuff but she had a wicked sense of humour and I commented to Norbert that she would be really fun with a couple of Schnapps under her belt. [cheeky grin] Also, she spoke English really well and this seems to be the case here as although neither Norbert or I speak a word of Danish, we are having no problems with language at all.

So...this is what Copenhagen looks like (see photo). It reminds me a lot of Amsterdam in Holland and I guess as they are both ports from similar times, it makes sense. But isn't it pretty!

Lots of water, boats and canals.....and lots of old buildings painted in bright colours. But Copenhagen is also a very modern city and I can back up some of my first impressions. Its rather 'arty' with lots of beautiful old statues green with age, such as the statue of Hans Christian Anderson and many of the past Kings. But there is also lots of modern art. I took a photo of something....but still not sure if you could call it 'art'. [laugh]

We actually got to go into the Palace! This is not something that your average individual tourist can go on as unlike most palaces, this one is not a museum....its actually in use and in fact the Queen was currently in residence. Not only that, Mary was in residence too although she didn't pop down to see us. Maybe nobody told her that there were Australians downstairs! [grin] You know what's weird though....the locals here say that she is from Tasmania...not Australia. And the bartender last night actually thought that Tasmania was part of New Zealand! :-D

We did have to wear these funny bootees though! Here is a photo of Norbert's feet. Aren't they cute! :-) Something to do with the parquet floors, I think.

One of the 'must do' photo opportunities in Copenhagen is 'The Little Mermaid' and the tour guide told us that although the Disney version of this story has a happy ending, the real legend has a very sad ending with the little mermaid not getting her man, and being turned into sea foam. Sad. What's even sadder is that she has lost her head 2 times...the statue, that is. No kidding! It has had to be replaced twice and the last time they filled her neck with concrete so that any future idiot doesn't have such an easy task.

There was an optional afternoon tour but Norbert and I decided to do our own thing and just walk around the city and 'soak it in' seeing as we only have one day here. The main thing one notices is that there are bikes everywhere! Copenhagen (like Amsterdam) is very flat so it is very practical but there are special bike lanes and even little traffic lights for them, so it makes it quite easy. The only problem is that they move very fast and in fact I almost got run down by a bike! We were walking along the road coming up to an intersection and Norbert said "Let's cross here"....and I took him literally and stepped off the kerb. Bad mistake..... but no injuries suffered. [grin]

The rest of the afternoon we wandered around just enjoying the shops, people and scenery. Amber, here is a photo for you.

Tonight we visited the Tivoli which is a lovely, genteel city garden filled with water, restaurants, theatres, live bands......and several scary theme park rides! If one ignores the screams from the kids on the roller coaster, one can imagine 19th century ladies with their fans, enjoying the sunshine and admiring the swans. We had some tea and wandered around, but weren't interested in the rides (sorry Skye) so we ended up coming back to the hotel. It was getting quite cool anyway.

Gotta have an early night tonight as we have an early morning call and the bus leaves at 8:00am to take us to the Ferry.....which is then a short hop to Sweden. I'm looking forward to this country as I have visions of lots of tall, muscly blonde guys called Sven. [cheesy grin] I'll let you know....

Seeya from both of us!

Arrived in Denmark....Mary says hello [grin]

Hi to all,
We're in Denmark! Arrived less than an hour ago and as I have found an unsecured wireless network I thought I'd give you a quick update. Just checked the Comments from my previous posting so my thanks to Allison, Mum... and Amber (for the effort). :-)
Allison, I'll keep trying to make the postings more interesting than business reports. Shouldn't be hard. [grin]
Mum, Great to hear you are enjoying reading my blog...but you know this just encourages me, don't you?.
Amber, losing data has happened to me too even though I try to remember to keep saving to the clipboard...just in case. Please try again.

Well, here's the quick update...sorry, no photos this time and I'll explain why later....

Last couple of days in Berlin
What can I say....Hartmut and Marina probably broke open a bottle of wine to celebrate our leaving again, especially as this time we pretty much took over their whole house with all our stuff, used their washing machine, put racks of drying washing everywhere, stacked boxes in their 'winter garden' and generally made a real nuisance of ourselves! Can't wait until they come to Australia so we can make it all up to them and treat them like absolute royalty! [grateful look]

A highlight on Friday was meeting another internet friend...Andreas, and his partner Dagmar. Unfortunately it was pouring with rain and although we had made a previous arrangement to meet at a specific monument, we ended up messing this up and were waiting at the wrong monument! :-S Nevertheless, finally got together and enjoyed a lovely afternoon sipping coffees and walking around a damp but still lovely Berlin.

Another highlight started with a definite downer - my camera broke. Can you believe it! [rolls her eyes] A day before I'm about to start a once-in-a-lifetime trip to Scandinavia, it stops working! But what a fantastic excuse to find technology shops and browse electronic gizmos and other fun things! [cheeky grin] I ended up getting a new Sony but its now on charge so this is why I don't have any photos ready for you yet.

Today (Saturday) all we did was pack. And sort. And chuck out. And re-pack. But finally we ended up with only 2 suitcases and some hand luggage and 3 big cardboxes destined for Australia. I'm wondering if we will beat them back?

Start of the Scandinavian Tour
Not much to report yet. Got to the airport on time (despite lots of ribbing from Norbert, Hartmut and Marina who were laughing at the fact that I kept checking my watch [grin]) and checked in. And of course the plane ended up being late anyway. [sigh] We flew out of Germany an hour and a half late however it was a short flight (about 50mins) so it wasn't long before we landed in Copenhagen although we have missed the 'Welcome Drink' for the beginning of the tour. Oh well....

First impressions? The taxi driver was Hungarian and spoke fluent English and German (and Danish I'm sure). Lots of English subtitles everywhere....on the taxi ride from the airport I noticed that very few shops have no English at all somewhere on the signage. The roads are wide and the weather is cooler, but still nice. When I look out of the double-glazed window I see a street filled with cafes and bikes. The hotel is lovely. So...all is good so far!

Anyway, must stop 'borrowing' this internet connection now as I'm feeling the guilt. [chuckle] We have a tour of Copenhagen starting at 8:30am tomorrow and I'm wondering if Mary will mind if we just pop by and say 'G'day'? [grin]

Exploring East Germany…Past & Present

G’day everyone!
Just back from travelling around East Germany and now I finally feel that I can say I have a broad experience and perspective on Germany, both its history and the vibrant and interesting country that it is now. So much negative stuff in the past but with the European Soccer Cup on now, there are German flags flying from car windows and decorating streets. We have been told by many people that this public display of patriotism is very new.,.only a couple of years old….and is a healthy sign that the Germans themselves are lifting their heads up proudly and looking forward to the future. Good on’em!

Wonderful to hear from you Heather. Not yet in Scandinavia but almost there! Can’t wait when YOU are travelling overseas and I get to read YOUR blog! :-)

But now, here’s a brief [supressed giggle] account of our last few days…..

Saturday, 7/6 - Packing up a new life
OK...maybe my 5 weeks in Fulda can't really be classified as a 'new life' but it has felt different than a holiday. Sending Norbert off to work in the mornings and then doing everyday tasks like cooking and shopping has meant that it has felt more like 'living' to me, rather than 'holidaying'. And of course for Norbert this definitely has been a new life as he has lived and worked here for over 5 months and has really settled in.

But Saturday was our final day in Fulda, so while Norbert raced around doing errands (ie returning a borrowed bike, closing his bank account etc), I stayed home and tried to sort everything into lists, bags and boxes....what has to be sent back to Adelaide...what we will throw out....what we need for the next few weeks etc. Aaargh!!! Its amazing how one accumulates stuff in such a short time! In the afternoon, Norbert chuffed off to Frankfurt to see an Aussie Rules football game and brought the new tennant back with him. Theo is a young EDAG employee from Cameroon in Africa, and he was absolutely thrilled to bits to be taking over the apartment. It meant getting out of the teeny room he'd been living in AND the end of his regular 4 hour commute to Fulda each day.

By 7pm the car was packed, and with final best wishes to Theo and a glance back at what had been our 'home', we pointed the car toward the horizon for our journey to Steinau which was our planned stop for the night.....about a 6 minute drive away. [laugh] Actually, we thought it was smart thinking to pack up and leave the apartment but not go too far on the first night as we were both tired, and there was really no hurry. When Norbert first came to this area he stayed at the Rhönblick Gasthaus in Steinau for 3 weeks before he found the apartment, and it was here that we decided to stay for our very last night. Sort of a nice circle...don't you think? :-) It was also a chance to see Stefan (the owner) one more time as he and Norbert had become friends. It was lovely to have a relaxing tea although another thunderstorm came through again and we finished the day watching the night sky being lit up with jagged forks, followed by the inevitable deep rolling of thunder overhead.

Sunday, 8/6 - Checking out Luther's past... and really skinny houses
I woke in what was total pitch-blackness, and almost fell over the suitcase moving my hands along the wall to find the door to the bathroom. Found my way back to bed looking forward to at least another couple of hours sleep and glanced at the clock to check the time. It was 8:20am!!!!!!!!!!!! Most buildings here have either shutters or outside blinds, and this Gasthaus had the reeeeeally efficient type of outside blind which turns a room into a level of darkness you can liken only to midnight in a coal mine. Luckily it was Sunday so breakfast was being served late and we made it in time for the usual Gasthaus spread and wonderful hot coffee served with 'kaffeesahne'....which is really creamy milk. Yummmmm... [grin]

We were late getting onto the road but it didn't matter as we were only planning on going as far as Eisenach....a bit more than 6 minutes away [grin] but nevertheless, not too far away. Eisenach is a large-ish town in what was East Germany, and while the ravages of history aren't as obvious in regional areas, the deterioration is much more evident in the roads and buildings of the larger towns, although much is being done to assist. As a child I grew up in a Lutheran community, so I was keen to see the 'Luther House' where Martin Luther lived during his later school years before he went off to University at Erfurt. Quite interesting, but not enough English again so although Norbert wrote 'mehr Englische' on the feedback book, it didn't help me at the time and I had to content myself with asking him for translations. Checked out Luther’s statue while we were there. (see photo).

Random question for you....how big is a house? Of course this is a silly question (like how long is a piece of string), but what if I asked...how THIN can a house be? Eisenach has a house which is only 6' 8" (220cm) wide at its widest point, and goes back 34' (10m) deep between 2 taller buildings getting narrower as it reaches back. Where would you fit the 3 piece lounge suite? Come to think of it, where would you fit the BED??? Norbert took a photo of me in front of it and its not much wider than my outstretched hands. Apparently it is a normal home though with people living in it. [shakes her head in amazement].

The day was still young-ish (like us [grin]) but we had to postpone our planned trip to Wartburg Castle (pronounced Vart-borg), as apparently it closes early so off we went on our usual 'Zimmer Frei hunt'. The first stop proved unfruitful as there were no rooms available but the woman recommended another house down the road and we found this easily and settled in for a quiet evening.

Monday, 9/6 – Travel, Train and Toilet troubles
Enjoyed a lovely breakfast in our host’s dining room (complete with lighted candle!) while listening to the German speaking budgie in the kitchen. I’m not kidding! He seemed to have a vocabulary which far exceeded mine! [grin]

We had hung around Eisenach because we were particularly keen to see Wartburg Castle…but here is where I would like to bring something to your attention. There are heaps of fantastic castles right across Germany and they are well worth seeing if you are visiting here. But…(and a big BUT)….what you need to keep in mind is that the whole reason they were built at the time, was to watch over the town below in order to warn of approaching enemies. Which means one thing. ALL German castles are UP !!!!! One can’t get around this small fact! [laugh] This particular one only needed a half dozen rest stops to climb all the steps so I must be getting fitter, but be warned anyone who is planning a trip like this and saying “…sometime in the future…when I retire…when I’ve paid off the house…when my kids are off my hands…etc etc.” I’d suggest not waiting too long. There are often little buses to help the elderly and incapacitated up the hills, but is this what you truly want? [disbelieving look] Wouldn’t you rather experience the feeling of climbing thousand year old steps through forests of tall trees? [grin] OK..OK…maybe the little bus idea sounds good to you, but be warned that not every castle has these anyway…especially the more inaccessible ones.

Anyway, Wartburg Castle was where Luther holed up for 10 months translating the New Testament into the modern German of the time so that the people could read it for themselves….before that it was only in Latin. We even saw the room where Luther was staying during his time there and where he did his writing (see photo). When I was a kid, one of my father’s favourite hymns was ‘A Mighty Fortress is our God…” and I was quite interested to know that apparently Luther wrote this because of his fondness for this castle and his time there. I really enjoyed this particular tour, especially because we had a really good guide who spoke excellent English and made the history come alive…a rare talent among tour guides.

Norbert was particularly keen to go to Wernigerode where a mate of his from the Schützenhaus had recommended a train tour which was supposed to be quite lovely. The map told us it was 100km away as the crow flies, but the GPS insisted it was a 2.5 hour drive. What to believe?? Norbert spent much of the next 2.5 hours arguing with the GPS but she consistently ignored him and kept saying “In 500 metres, turn left.” In fact, she said ‘turn left’ so often that I seriously wondered if we were travelling in ever decreasing circles and would end up back where we started from! But we finally arrived in Wernigerode…unfortunately far too late for any train rides. [sigh] Oh well….it will have to be like our previous Neuschwanstein experience and we will put it on our ‘must do’ list for next time.

Oh….while I’m giving travel warnings, ALWAYS make sure you have 50c on you. Always! Imagine this……you are busting to go to the toilet but you have to wait for ages because small towns don’t have public WC’s. You finally arrive in a larger town and YES….there is a public loo next to a park. You grab your purse (because you know it always costs money to go to a public loo in Europe) and race across the road. Finally…finally…almost there! [concerned look on face] You notice that it is an automated door which means the door won’t open unless you put 50c in a slot. So with legs crossed, you rummage around in your purse and come up with 2 x 20c and 1 x 10c. Almost there…almost there… [very worried look] And it is THEN that you notice that the automated door ONLY accepts an actual 50c coin. And you don’t have one. Am I getting some empathy out there???? Stop laughing everyone…it wasn’t funny!!!!! [stifles a chuckle]

With nothing left to do in Wernigerode and an appointment in Leipzig the following day, we had tea at a pavement café and set the GPS for Leipzig. It was already 8:30pm though and I was beginning to feel a bit seedy (Skye…empathising with your ‘holiday troubles’ lately) so we stopped at Nachterstedt to find somewhere for the night. But by now we were heading deeper into the east part of Germany, and perhaps a brief pause here to offer my impressions of the states previously dominated by Communism. One can still see the marks. The roads are being worked on but they are still much more run-down. There are many more run-down buildings and what I found a little disturbing is that so many buildings that I thought were old sheds, actually had lace curtains in the windows. There are rectangular apartment buildings put up by the Communist regime and still in use, however attempts have been made to renovate them with the addition of external features and colour to make them more attractive. Everything looks a little shabby, because for so many years the people had to ‘make do’ with what they had. They couldn’t work harder to improve their living conditions and besides, the goods were not available to buy anyway. But please don’t think that I’m describing a place that looks like Communist Russia or something because it doesn’t. The countryside is still beautiful with rolling green pastures and forests.

But it does explain that for Monday night, we ended up staying in an apartment in Nachterstedt which was quite expensive, breakfast cost extra, and the furnishings where somewhat run-down. Quite comfortable though and I’m not complaining….just noting the differences.

Tuesday, 10/6 - Leipzig….and gaining a new awareness of East Germany.
A truly memorable day, and new friends made. Started with breakfast outside as the weather was so nice, then crammed everything into the back of the car again (which was a complete shemozzle by this time) and set off for Leipzig…our final destination before Berlin.

First priority was finding a place to stay, and I was a bit concerned that it would be expensive if we stayed in the city area. Nevertheless, Norbert checked our GPS which gave us several hotel options and we hit success at the second one. It looked a bit fancy as we walked in the door and I balked at the 4-star sign however Norbert said it was still worth asking the question. So he did. [shocked look] Apparently the rate for a room was 290 euros!!!!! We looked at each other and Norbert informed the receptionist straight out that this was far too expensive. I resigned myself to more searching around to get a roof over our head for the night but in the meantime there was much fast conversation in German which I was finding hard to follow…but it ended with the girl handing over a key! Huh? [confused look] Did he really agree to pay 290 euros for one room for one night!!! But no….apparently Norbert told her that he could use the internet to find a cheaper hotel so the girl said she would check their internet rate…..and it was 81 euros. Quite a reduction! So….deal done, we threw our stuff on the bed, parked the car in the garage below the hotel, and walked to the main road to the tram line, bought a day ticket from the ticket-machine and went into town.

Visiting Leipzig was a priority for me, so let me explain……during the first part of 2008 I have been learning German in preparation for travelling in this country, and during this time I came across a website where one could make contact with native speakers…the idea being to help each other learn one’s own language. I made contact with a lady called Brigitte who lived in Leipzig and who wanted to improve her English, and at the time we talked over the internet using Skype. I was very keen to meet her in person and this was the day. We were sitting in a café and it was exciting to hear a German voice saying (in English)…"May I join you?" [pleased grin] We spent a wonderful couple of hours being personally escorted around the centre of Leipzig and having many buildings and places explained, and when her husband (Wolfgang) finished work he joined us and we had a delightful dinner at an outside café, finding lots to talk about. It is always fantastic to actually meet someone whom you have only previously spoken to on the internet….you feel comfortable with them straight away.

I really don’t want to bore anyone but I’ve mentioned before that I am extremely interested in the history of this country, especially the recent history. Brigitte has been the first person I have met who has directly experienced the time of Communism, the GDR and being behind the wire fences in East Germany, and she told us the most disturbing yet fascinating stories of growing up in an environment where one was watched and controlled. For example, she told us that her parents had some very good family friends whom they trusted….but they later found out that these people were informing on them. Imagine finding out that your very best friend that you have always trusted, is, in fact, your worst enemy! She told us that she had a pen-pal in Japan but later learned that the letters arrived with black texta covering anything which was considered slightly inflammatory….she wondered at the time why her pen-pal didn’t respond to her comments. She described how her mother got her to line up for hours to get a kilo of bananas the very first time they were available. Her stories were all about being watched…being scared….and most importantly, NOT being free.

But what enthralled me most was her direct involvement in ‘the Wall’ coming down. She took us to a church (St. Nikolai Kirche) where on 9th October 1989, the evening service was followed by a peaceful demonstration for freedom and the end of the GDR…everyone walked the city circle with banners. (Remember..this was a Communist country at the time so it was a very dangerous thing to do!!!) The demonstrations grew and grew as an ‘every Monday’ event and eventually there were 500,000 people walking around the city! Before long, similar peaceful demonstrations were happening in other places. It was televised on West German TV and this overwhelming ‘people power’ directly led to the breakdown of the Communist Regime and the breaking down of the wall. To mark the place where this all began there is a plaque on the ground outside St. Nikolai Kirche (see photo) It’s one thing to read history in a book, but another to sit at a café and have somebody talk about what it was actually like because they were there. At the time, Brigitte was married and had 2 small children. She went to the church on 9th October, 1989 although colleagues at work warned her that it was dangerous and she could be arrested or even shot. Her husband stayed home with the children becase they didn’t want their children to be orphans! Over the next weeks, she went on one Monday, and he went on the next….only ever one at a time ‘in case something happened’. Unbelievable!!! [shakes her head in amazement]. Can you imagine being that desparate just for the basic human right to be free? And she told us about the evening she first heard that the wall had been broken through in Berlin, and how it seemed like a dream. Two weeks later they packed their 2 kids and their luggage into their Trabant (an east German car which they’d waited 7 years to get) and set off for Bavaria….it must have been like going to a different country! She laughingly described how the Bavarian farmers stared and stared at them as a family of East Germans in a ‘Trebbie’ was an unusual sight! [grin]

The day was such a good experience and I have been left with an impression of Leipzig which is quite different than if I’d just come in as any other tourist and walked around by myself. I feel I understand some of the ‘whys’ as well as the ‘whats’. Right now there is construction happening across the city and it is as if there is a desperation to ‘catch up’. So much of Leipzig was destroyed in the wars and the Communist regime was not interested in rebuilding it as it was. During the Cold War everything went even further downhill as there was no money for rebuilding or for construction of any kind other than the strictly practical…..but thanks to massive injections of money which have been coming in from West Germany it is finally changing and becoming beautiful again. I felt a very real sympathy for the people of Leipzig as they have put up with so much horror and yet there is a feeling of new hope. Brigitte told me that although she once said that she did not want to die in this city, she now feels differently as it has changed so much and in such a positive way.

I could write so much about what Brigitte and Wolfgang told us, but this blog is long enough and anyway, the memories and impressions I will carry with me all my life. I am so grateful to both of them for sharing their lives with us so generously and I know that we will keep in contact in the future.

Wednesday 11/6 – Goodbye Leipyig and hello Berlin again!
Our last day of being ‘foot loose and fancy free’….no job, no home and no agenda. Lovin’ it!!!! [huge grin] Left the car in the ‘teifgarage’ at the hotel and grabbed a tram into town again. Brigitte had filled us with enthusiasm about other places to see so we began at the ‘Runde Ecke’ Musuem….the site of the original Stasi Headquarters (secret police). This place filled me with an overwhelming sense of amazement and horror as to the lengths that the Stasi went to in order to ‘keep an eye on’ ordinary citizens, as the exhibition included bugs & other phone surveillance systems, devices for opening letters, disguises, and even jars of ‘smells’….suspects would have to put small bits of cloth under their arms and then were made to run until they perspired. These cloths were then stored in jars so that police dogs could track and find the people in the future. There are still cupboards and cupboards of letters and packages there which were never delivered. The one negative to the visit was that, once again, it was all in German.

Really getting into the history thing again so we walked a short way until we found the ‘Geschichteerleben’ Musuem which is a modern museum with a more general view of German history. It could have been really interesting but despite checking with the girl on the front desk who assured us that there was much in English, there wasn’t. Nothing at all. Norbert wandered around reading but I found it extremely frustrating to not be able to understand when I really wanted to find out more. So I did a dummy spit! I was standing by the door by myself and an attendant came over and asked me (in German) to move away and stand somewhere else. This was the final straw for me so I said “Ich spreche kein Deutsch”…even though I did understand her….and then said “Ich verstehe NICHT! Gibt’s KEIN Englishe!!!” This is probably very bad German but she seemed to get the idea and went off and found me a folder with the main signs translated into English. Mind you…apparently it is necessary to ask. Anyway, I calmed down a little and went back into the museum to wander around again with the folder. It was better than nothing and gave me a general idea. Don’t get me wrong….I realise that it is my responsibility to know the language and I’m really trying to learn, but the type of language which is in museums is difficult for even Norbert to understand…..the people in charge really need to give us a hand if they want to encourage more tourism.

[deep breath] Anyway…I’ll stop whinging and whining now! [grin] Back onto the tram and a few stops took us to the ‘Völkerschlachtdenkmal’…a huge memorial to the battle that led to Napolean’s defeat in 1815. It might sound boring but it is actually one of those ‘take your breath away’ places! You walk into this amazing structure that stands 91m tall, to be confronted with statues which tower over one’s head, and even they are dwarfed by the massive domed roof which soars high above. Its one of the those places you just have to see and despite the fact that our Fodor’s book was not very complimentary, it was a great experience. Best of all…they had an audio tour in English, for only 1 euro! It was excellent and gave more background than even being able to read everything would have given me. Mind you, all the major signs were translated into English too so there was even lots to read. Well done to the people in charge of that place….very professional.

We had meant to leave Leipzig mid-arvo but it was 5:30pm before we were on our way. Luckily it was an easy run on the Autobahn and we were in Berlin having drinks with Hartmut and Marina by 7:30pm.

So what’s next?
We are spending a couple of days in Berlin to get organised and then we will be on a plane to Copenhagen on Saturday afternoon to begin our Scandinavian tour. First thing Saturday night we meet our fellow sheep…ummmm….tour passengers [grin] and then we have 16 days of ‘everybody on the bus’ and ‘everybody off the bus’ as we get herded around Finland, Denmark, Norway and Sweden. [laugh] I’m being facetious of course….there is nothing wrong with an organised tour, its just that after being ‘footloose and fancy free’, the restrictions and time limits may irk a little. And I just know that at one stage I will be very embarrassed when Norbert will be standing in a line going “Baa…baa..”. He’s like that. [laughs loudly] No matter, the advantage is that finding accommodation and the location of things to see is somebody else’s problem and we can just sit back and relax.

I hope to find internet cafes around Scandanavia but its all an unknown at the moment, however please leave a comment anyway as I will do my best to get online somehow and somewhere.

Cheers all!

Lakes, Alps...and the 'Romantic Road'

We're back!!! Hi everyone!
My last posting was just as we were getting ready to leave for the Bodensee area, which is right on the border of Switzerland and Austria....south of Fulda. Thanks for your comments Amber, Bruce/Liz, Skye and Allison. I'm a little concerned that a couple of people have said they tried to put up a comment but it 'disappeared'. Hmmmm....my apologies to you if your attempts have not been acknowledged but please try again as its so lovely to hear from everyone. If you continue to have a problem, just email me your comments (manto@adam.com.au).

Amber, great to hear that you finally have some leave! It will be a great break for you and a chance to relax. Not to mention you and Grandma can keep each other company...she might even make you a sponge cake if you ask her nicely. [grin]
Bruce & Liz, thanks for popping by every now to check what I'm up to. While I was sipping a cold drink on the banks of the Bodensee (see below) I was thinking of you guys in cold, wintery Bendigo. [cheeky grin]
Skye, I've just sent you a text so I'm hoping we can catch up today - last chance as I'm packing to leave Fulda for good. But yes...definite appointment to catch up back in Adelaide!!!
Allison, thanks for hanging in there with the 'Marlene in Germany' saga! We're off to Scandanavia next week so definitely further afield soon.

Apologies to all who were looking for an 'executive summary' but I have such limited time on the internet now that I just can't use any extra time to do this. You will have to just scan the headings below and perhaps look at the pictures. {grin]

I am reminded of a travel forum that I was reading through back at the beginning of this year, where people were talking about their holidays and giving recommendations (and warnings). I came across an American guy who wrote "just skip Germany as there is nothing to see there." [rolls her eyes] I don't know what he was looking for but this comment astounds me as there is so much to see that I am almost overwhelmed with the diversity of landscape, culture, history and people. He must be extremely hard to please!

So....let me paint you a mental picture of the Bodensee, and what we saw and experienced, and then YOU make up you mind whether this is 'nothing to see'. [grin]

Saturday 31st May - Getting there
We had errands to do in town but after lunch we hit the Autobahn once again for the 4 hour trip to the Bodensee. Where do you end up if you drive 4 hours out of Adelaide.... Port Pirie? [laugh] The Autobahn is fast and efficient but a little tedious, so just for fun I suggested we play a game we used to play when driving with bored kids....choosing a car colour then counting them to see who gets the most. Norbert said he would choose black and I had 'everything else BUT black'. We gave up in 5 minutes because Norbert was obviously going to win by a huge margin! [laugh]

Had to drive through a big storm band (heavy rain with thunder, lightening etc...combined with fast traffic and huge trucks on the Autobahn) but we arrived safe and sound in Liggeringen and found a nice little Zimmer Frei by spotting a sign on the side of the road - this one even came with a mini-kitchen! But we hadn't come prepared with groceries so we wandered around the corner to find something to eat - nice place....tables under the trees in a quiet setting. But we walked out! Yep...sat there for 20 minutes and the staff didn't even come to clear the table let alone ask us if we wanted a drink! The people next to us were obviously annoyed too however Germans don't seem to expect service and just accept what they get. But Aussies vote with their feet so we found another Gasthaus down the road and within 5 minutes had a drink in front of us and our food order taken by an extremely friendly woman.

Sunday 1st June - a quick trip to Sweden... on a tropical island!
The sun was shining as we shared a 'basket breakfast' at the outdoor table setting outside our room. We were discussing what we would do for the day when Norbert said "I though we'd start the day in Sweden." Huh???? He explained that according to the Fodors book we are using as a guide (albeit 10 years old) apparently a local island is still owned by Sweden...so we thought we'd go there. Its called Insel Mainau (Mainau Island) and can be reached by bridge as it is in the middle of the Bodensee. (**Note: In Germany, a 'See' is a lake....and the Bodensee is the largest lake in the German speaking world)

Well, all I can say is....Wow!!! Sit back...relax...and imagine a huge expanse of clear, blue/green water, scattered with the pristine white sails of a myriad yachts. All around are sub-tropical plants and palm trees, and multi-hued butterflies dance over vibrantly coloured flowers. Close to the water, sun-drenched streets are lined with cafes protected from the glaring sun by flamboyant umbrellas. So.....do you think you might be in the Greek Islands or perhaps Cairns???? Now, ADD to this mental picture......a backdrop of the Swiss Alps - jagged, snow-covered mountains dotted with ancient castles....and a Zeppelin hanging low over the landscape! This

describes Insel Mainau. Because of the expanse of water it is actually a micro-climate and plants grow there that would not survive anywhere else in the area. I saw Bougeanvillea, vineyards and even orchards of stone fruit! Quite amazing! Look at this photo Norbert took, and you will get an idea of just how bright and colourful it is!

After wandering through the gardens and just soaking up the sunshine and the tropical environment, we boarded a boat called the 'Stuttgart' which took us across the lake to the village of Meersburg where we had lunch in a lakeside cafe overlooking the water and yachts. Amber, I was thinking of you when we were sitting there as I know you love the Greek Islands and I'm positive you would love this area too.

One little anecdote which once again characterises the German acceptance of rules and need for authority that I have mentioned in previous postings. On the way back to Insel Mainau we were sitting on the deck of the ship when a steward came past and sternly told the person sitting next to us to take his foot off the (aluminium) seat. Some loutish teenager? No....a man who would have been in his 70's and was obviously propping up his leg, maybe due to arthritis pains. What was even more confusing for me was that his wife sitting next to him didn't like it however he kept saying "Das ist richtig"....that it is right that he be told this. [shakes her head] I don't get it. Germans are mostly lovely people but when it comes to rules and keeping order, perhaps they need to learn about the Aussie term, "to cut some slack". [grin] (For my German readers, that means to be a little more flexible, and take the initiative to adjust the rules according to the situation.)

And here's another 'GPS story'. This little gadget is invaluable however we were reminded again to ensure that the settings were right. We left the island and decided to visit the city of Konstanz so Norbert set the GPS and off we went. But just around the corner he said "That doesn't seem right"....and pulled in to check. According to the GPS, it would take 1 hour and 20 minutes to get there. So he changed the setting to allow main roads....and the time cut down to EIGHT MINUTES. [laugh] Talk about the long way around! Anyway, after a look around the Altstadt (the old part of the town) we drove back to Liggeringen and our comfortable 'Zimmer', a little sunburnt but happy and relaxed.

Decided to go to the same Gasthaus for tea again and as we (coincidentally) sat ourselves down at the same table as we had the previous night, the same friendly woman bustled out exclaiming happily "Aaahhh...d'Australians!" And then she proceeded to rattle off the same order for drinks as we had asked for the previous evening. She remembered us well! Talk about feeling welcomed and part of the local community! It was wonderful!! [beaming grin]

Monday 2nd June - Beginning in the Stone Age and ending in the Alps
Set the GPS to wind around the small villages in an easterly direction, skirting the north shores of the Bordensee until we came to Uberlingen. Fodor's book calls this town the 'Nice of Germany'....as in the 'south of France' Nice. And I can see why. We parked the car and headed for the water then joined others strolling along the Promenade, finally stopping to enjoy a cappuccino while gazing out across the water. Aaahhhh.... this is the life. [euphoric look] Am I making you jealous yet? [cheeky grin]

Anyway, enough of the lazing around. After that it was time for some serious cultural edification and learning [stern, teacher face] so we checked out the Pfahlbauten Museum where we learnt how people lived on the lakes and other European water areas during the Stone Age and Bronze Age. I know what you are imagining....shelves full of dusty relics and peering to read yellowed labels. But no....this was another one of those 'outdoor museums' where replicas of huts and buildings have been actually built out over the water, and one has to walk over wooden platforms to get from one to another. Sort of like the Schwartzwald village I have explained about earlier...but several thousand years earlier. Really interesting....except for the fact that just about everything was in German. [sigh] Still, it was quite fascinating to drop back 5,000 years or more to see the way people lived their surprisingly complex and progressive lives. The photo will give you an idea of what it was like...and Robby, note that I am wearing a T'shirt! [grin]

By then we were getting into the educational theme so decided to find the Zeppelin Museum to learn more about these out-of-the-ordinary flying machines. I must admit, I harboured desires to see if we could get on board for a flight....[sigh].....but it was not to be. Drove all the way to Friedrichshafen, found a park, walked to the Museum to find a sign on the door which said "Montag Ruhetag"...which means 'Mondays Closed'. "So ein Mist!" (and no, I'm not translating that for you. [laugh])

The luck continued as I was hot when I got back to the car so sat in the front seat and opened up the bottle of mineral water which had been lying on the back seat. Water sprayed everywhere!!!! Didn't help at all that Norbert was falling about laughing as I was trying to get the spewing bottle out of the car as quickly as possible before me (and the inside of the car) were completely drenched!! ROFL Oh well....at least it was cool sitting in wet clothes for a while! [chuckle]

Wandered around Insel Lindau for a while (and yes, that's another island. You're learning German too!! [grin]) but towering thunderheads were appearing in the sky and the ominous sound of rolling thunder sent us back to the car to try and keep ahead of the storm. Wasn't to be though. We were travelling through the Alps at this time and dropped down into Austria as the storm gained momentum making it somewhat challenging manouvreing on the steep roads. I'm completely confident in Norbert's driving now but it was getting a bit scary with the lightening illuminating a sky that was getting blacker by the minute...so we pulled into a Zimmer Frei with a view across a lush green valley, and decided to call it a night.

(I'll finish off this day with a short note...the room was on the top storey of a half-timbered house and the mystery of the internal floors that I have posed in a previous posting may have been solved. I swear that if one dropped a box of Jaffas next to the bed, they would all end up in the bathroom! [laugh])

Tuesday 3rd June - Finally....Neuschwanstein Castle and the 'Romantic Road'
Today was the 'big day' and one of the reasons we had come down to this area of Germany. I'll fill you in......

Our 2006 European tour did not go to Neuschwanstein Castle, so at the time we decided to make our own way there. This was right on Christmas though so despite booking a seat on a small tour at the time, the bus trip was cancelled. It apparently wasn't meant to be! So THIS time we were determined to get there and it was with high expectations we pulled into the car park.....to be confronted with buses of tourists again [sigh]. Oh well, we were expecting this and it wasn't too bad as this was a weekday and not during European school holidays. The big advantage was that we could get an English-speaking tour!

It was funny when Norbert booked it.....I heard him talking (in German) to the guy behind the counter asking for 2 tickets, however when the guy made the assumption that we were booking in for the German tour, Norbert quickly corrected him and said that we would like the English tour instead. The dumb-founded look on the guy's face prompted Norbert to say (in English)..."Trust me, my English is better than my German!" [laugh]

First we walked up a small hill to see Hohenschwangau Castle, which is interesting in itself and the closest one. But then despite the availability of a romantic ride up via a horse-drawn carriage, Norbert literally dragged me up the side of a mountain on what felt like several kilometres of track on which only a mountain goat would feel at home. He kept saying "Its levelling out soon". Yeah....sure!! [grin]

I was about to pike out on the final leg of the climb to Marienbrüke (a bridge between 2 mountains) but a man resting on a nearby bench heard me objecting so pulled out his camera and showed me the photo he'd just taken. OK....I was convinced. [grin] And yes....I'm glad I made the effort as it was absolutely breathtaking!! One is literally hanging above a ravine with a view of Neuschwanstein right in front. Of course it did cross my mind that this was a hundred-and-something year old bridge and I wasn't confident that it was constructed with busloads of Japanese tourists in mind. :-) Nevertheless, well worth the climb.

After a fascinating tour of the Neuschwanstein castle (which I won't bore you with as you can Google it if you are interested) we made our way out of the busy place and stopped by Märchenwald for a late lunch. Now Norbert is still teasing me about this as it sounded good in the Fodor's book, but would probably have been better when I was about....umm... five years old perhaps? [laugh] Märchenwald means 'Fairytale Forest' and while it was cute, it was a bit weak.

We were following what is known as the 'Romantic Road' which is described as "...a wondrous and fanciful journey" and is 420km in length. Oh...just want to mention that the roads are lined with wild-flowers in all colours, including brilliant red wild poppies. Extremely picturesque!

On to Mittenwald as the last leg for the day and we followed the usual routine of looking for a Zimmer Frei. Usually we don't check them out first but when the first one we visited said that it would cost 60 euros, I thought this was exceptionally expensive and asked to see it as I would have assumed it would have a wonderful view at the very least for this sort of price. Well, instead of taking us upstairs the lady took us around the back where they had made a guest room out of the back shed! OK, it was still very clean and neat but the view of the rubbish outside the window meant it was definitely not worth anything close to what she was asking! So we said 'thanks...but no thanks' and continued looking. Goes to show that it is worth checking if you are at all unsure!

What we ended up with though was a delightful Gasthaus with a lovely room with its own balcony. I've put up a photo of it....can you see me on the balcony? Later that night I was feeling like I'd gone to heaven as we sat out on this balcony and enjoyed a round (or two [grin]) of Schnaps while craning our necks upward to see jacked mountain peaks still covered with snow high above us, and the sound of goat bells as the herds were rounded up for the night. Straight out of the Heidi story! (Skye...we were only about 40k or so from Grainau so you would remember the scenery in this area).

Wednesday 4th June - end of the Romantic Road, and end of the trip.
Woke with sore muscles in my...ummm...shall we say, gluteus maximus? [laugh] That's what you get for climbing mountains at my age! :-D The weather was still cloudy and threatening rain so despite deliberating over breakfast about several possible destinations, we decided to head straight up the Romantic Road for Rothenburg-ob-der-Tauber as this was on our way home and a place recommended by Andreas, a social contact from Berlin.

Unfortunately the rain didn't stop but we still enjoyed the visit as this place is quite unique...thanks for the tip Andreas! I believe it is the only remaining walled city left in existence after various wars and useless bombings...,.in fact Rothenburg-ob-der-Tauber was also bombed right at the end of the war (heaven knows why!!!) but managed to escape major damage. In other towns one finds the last remains of city walls, usually crumbling and covered in ivy however in Rothenburg we walked almost all the way around the old centre of the town...several metres above the ground and thankfully out of the rain! Its all intact thanks to many donations and lots of hard work and gives a fascinating understanding of what it would have been like to have to defend one's life and family from marauding enemies with arrows and spears. Of course it doesn't help against more advanced weapons though and so many of these walls were dismantled and/or fell into disrepair.

Finished off the day standing under damp umbrellas and with soggy jeans hems....so decided to head for home. Once again it was a bit of a contest to face against the big trucks in blinding rain on the Autobahns, however I think we are getting used to it now and it isn't so stressful. I took a photo out of my window this time so you get some idea of how close they whizz by.

Some of the big Autobahns don't have a speed limit and cars fly past on the left hand side at unbelievable speeds, even in the rain....and 80% of these are generally Audi's, usually black ones. Where the Autobahns meet there is often very complicated clover-cleaf intersections and we were continuously grateful for the GPS to help navigate these. There are some speed limits in places though and these are usually 120kph. Norbert has gone through a couple of cameras and when he owned up to the rental car firm they didn't seem at all concerned...just said "Oh, that will be the Police's problem, especially when they find out you've gone to Australia." Now, I'm not sure if that is the right attitude but as the fine here is only about 22 euros, we were assured it is highly unlikely they will chase him. [grin]

We rolled in to our car park at exactly 7pm.....and after dragging everything upstairs, toasted a successful trip with some Schnaps. Natürlich! [grin]

Saying goodbye to everyone
We leave Fulda on Saturday and as Norbert (and now I as well) have made many friends here, everyone is very keen to say goodbye. I commented yesterday that we don't ever have this many invitations for social occasions, even at Christmastime!

On Thursday we were invited to lunch in Simmershausen with Lothar and Agnes, and also to see their newly renovated home. A wonderful lunch and we got to see the result of all their hard work on this old building. This was followed by a long walk in the surrounding countryside finishing off with coffee at a local coffee house. We even passed through what would have been the border as it was only a kilometre from the house. Nothing much there now but the lack of forestation on what would have been 'no man's land' was very obvious and reminded me once again of this precarious history.

We said our final goodbyes and they have promised to visit us in Australia....and then it was on to a 'grill' (grill = BBQ) at Marcus's house. A fun evening with lots of debate and conversation but I was still really tired after our trip so we said our final goodbyes and came home to get some sleep.

Tonight (Friday) we have been invited out for dinner with Jürgen and his family, and is the reason that I am rushing to finish off this blog as they are picking us up in less than an hour. And I still have all our clothes flapping on the washline out on the balcony! Must go! [grin]

As of tomorrow we make our way to Berlin again, and on 14th June we are off on our 'Nordic Adventure' up to Finland and Denmark, so I'm sure while this blog will become shorter and more rushed, it will be filled with stories of grey seas, amazing fiords and Scandinavian culture.

Tschüss!
Marlene

Fun nights and electric storms

Neblig Grüße aus Fulda! (Greetings from foggy Fulda)

Got up this morning to find the world reduced to a couple of streets around the apartment, and the rest a white, misty shroud. Quite a change from yesterday when it was about 30degrees and humid...Darwin weather....leading to a wild electric storm in the evening dumping sheets of water and even hail! But today (Saturday) it is cool and calm as we make final arrangements to head off to Bodensee..on the border between Switzerland and Germany.

Norbert is literally standing next to me waiting to whip the modem out of the laptop and take it into Fulda to finalise the internet, but I'm holding him off just 15 more minutes so that I can write a short update. [frowns] Did I just hear somebody mutter something like... I don't know the meaning of the word 'short'??? [laugh] Fair enough, but I'll do my best.

However, first my thanks to Uwe, Allison, Heather & Robby for your comments on my previous posting....
Uwe, not sure about the photos from now on but I will do my best!
Allison, I agree....I would have missed heaps and I'm so glad you encouraged me to just make the decision to go. :-)
Heather, lots of Black Forest cake around...but none of it gluten-free. :-( Don't let the boss get you too stressed...just keep thinking, "Will anyone DIE if this or that is not done?" [grin]
Robby, great to hear from you both! It is warm here, but I feel every teeny breeze so it takes a day like yesterday to get me to uncover. Still, I'm getting a tan here as the sun is not so strong.

Its been a quiet week and the highlight for me was spending another day in town practicing German by talking with locals. I spent an hour or so getting my nails done which was interesting as my little German dictionary didn't have the words I needed (like Acrylic Refills), but lots of laughs and miming meant we managed OK. I even managed to find a hairdresser and make an appointment for next week, so I was feeling quite good about my ability to cope with the language. Norbert has been suffering with hay fever which has been difficult for him. The term 'Spring is in the air' is quite literal here, as one can SEE the pollen and other stuff literally floating in the air. A hay fever sufferers idea of hell. Oh well...he's dosing himself on drugs so this is helping a little.

Yesterday was Norbert's last day at work so he had organised dinner out at a local Thai restaurant for a few close colleages and friends. Heather, we even decorated the table with your German/Aussie flags but we needed a Slovakian flag too...oh well. :-) Lots of fun and laughs, especially when the rain came down...everyone rushed up the stairs (the restauring is in the cellar) to watch the unexpected show of lightening and hail. Marcus commented that he had come on his scooter which would make going home fun for him! [grin]

We exchanged details as everyone wanted to keep in touch. Miro & Lubicia gave us a lovely book all about Fulda with some gorgeous photos - a good thing as I think it will be some time before I am able to read it. [grin] Jürgen and Bettina brought their daughter, Madeline who had her first tentative try of Thai food. The night finished off with a complimentary round of Schnaps from the owner of the restaurant who personally came out to see us all off at the end of the night (it had stopped raining by then). And so ended a lovely evening!

I must go as I'm getting 'the look' [cheeky grin]. We're off on another little adventure now and plan to see Neuschwanstein Castle as well as other sights in the Bodensee area. I'll tell you all about it...somehow [frowns]....when we get back.

Seeya!

A weekend in the Black Forest

G'day from Deutschland!

I've been quiet lately, I know, but I've been away for 4 days (AND away from the internet) so I've got lots of catching up to do! [grin] First of all though, great to hear from you Allison, Skye and Amber.

Allison, to answer your questions...it gets dark here sometime after 9:30pm. Schnaps are served chilled or room temperature, depending on what it is. Don't really have a favourite but I prefer something under 40% alcohol or I fall over too quickly. Induction Workshop? What are they again?? [frowns] ROFL
Amber, your decision re your job is yours, of course, but try not to be too impulsive as sometimes things work themselves out if you give them a chance.
Skye, I hope you have a wonderful time in the Canary Islands...we will definitely try to catch up online before I head off to Scandanavia. Talk about ships in the night! [laugh]

But now, back to what's been happening. And YOU have a decision to make! You will either have to go and get something to keep up your strength while you read the lengthy saga following... [cheeky grin], or perhaps just scan over the Executive Summary for the overview. Basically though, Norbert and I packed the car on Thursday morning and headed off toward the Schwarzwald area...the Black Forest. Land of mountains, fir trees, cuckoo clocks and Black Forest cake (Kirschtorte). Sound fun? Let me take you there....why not skip the Summary and read on for the whole experience. :-)

Executive Summary

OK....you only have 5 minutes so here are 4 days squeezed into 4 paragraphs. [grin] First, Thursday. We didn't want to fly past all the interesting scenery, so Norbert set the GPS to avoid main roads. What we didn't know was that it would consider that everything apart from a one-lane goat track is a main road!! [laughs loudly] At lunchtime though, Norbert started to get a migraine so he went back to the car to sleep it off (which is the only thing that really helps) and I set off by myself to explore the little town. We set off again after Norbert felt better and arrived in Heidelberg at around 6:30pm.

On Friday we enjoyed a cruise down the Neckar river, looking up at the lovely sight of buildings 'climbing up' the slopes, and castles perched on rocky outcrops. Just gorgeous! In the afternoon we went to see the famous Heidelberg Castle. One needs to climb about 375 steps to get up the hill but we made it. We then drove on to Pforzheim but had made the decision not to stay in cities (which it is), so we kept going as we were driving through a little village called Unterreichenbach, Norbert saw a 'Zimmer Frei' sign, and quickly chucked a lefty! Note that 'Zimmer Frei' means 'Room Free' and it is a sign usually displayed on a Gasthof or Gasthaus...which is an inn in the old meaning of the word. This particular one was lovely, comfortable, and cheap!

After setting off again on Saturday morning we came across Bad Liebenzell. An incredibly pretty place. We took off through the forest and before long were listening to the sounds of birds and the gentle rustling of leaves...and of course our own huffing and puffing. [grin] As it was Saturday it seemed that every town had a Saturday market in their Marktplatz. Picture cobbled streets with displays of colourful flowers, fruit, vegetables and other wares laid out for sale. In the afternoon it started to rain though, so as it was no longer the weather to wander around looking at scenery, we booked into another 'Zimmer Frei' at a farmhouse which was lovely and incredible value.

On Sunday we went to the Schwarzwald's version of Sovereign Hill - a small 'town' of historical buildings from various Black Forest regions and from the past 400 years. All the buildings are either replicas or were actually authentic and had been dismantled and re-built on this site...incredible, and extremely interesting! We then stopped in Triberg as they have the highest waterfall in Germany there, and followed that up with a visit to Titisee to see a beautiful (but icy cold) mountain lake. Home via Autobahn and it was no problem this time as trucks aren't allowed on them until midnight. So an easy run and the end of a really lovely weekend!

_______________________________________________________________________

The Full Story

Anyway, on to the 'real' story in all its wonderful detail! [laughs] When we got back last night, I asked Norbert for his impressions of the Schwarzwald area, and he said "green and mountainous". He's a man of few words though so I'm sure I can expand on that. [grin] Read on....

Thursday - checking out every goat-track on the way to Heidelberg!

We had both agreed that after spending most of our previous tour whizzing down Autobahns and gazing at what looked like wonderful scenery from a distance we wanted to enjoy a closer look at the country this time, so Norbert set the GPS to avoid main roads. What we didn't take into account was that it was a computer (and you know how smart they are), and it would consider that everything apart from a one-lane goat track is a main road!! [giggle] We certainly saw some amazing scenery though, as Norbert expertly eased the car around tight curves with towering cliffs on one side, and a breath-holding drop to a deep valley on the other. Through tiny villages which probably saw few strangers, and through darkened archways of incredibly tall trees with branches touching high above us.

By mid-morning we were hanging out for coffee so pulled into a place with tables and umbrellas, and a lady out the front putting up balloons. We asked if we could have some coffee and she bustled off inside to get it while we sat and relaxed in the sunshine. As we left, she mentioned that she wasn't actually open until 5pm and was just setting up for the evening! Such is the hospitality of these folks. [grin]

Have I mentioned that there are about a zillion bikes on the roads every weekend? Both the push kind AND the motor kind. I reckon they get such a short burst of warmth and sunshine that they try to make up for a whole 12 months in just a few weeks.....but that might be just my interpretation. :-) Anyway, we continued meandering through the incredibly green and hilly countryside, coming across little villages every 3-5 kilometres with interesting names like Döllbach, Jossa and Bad Brüchenau until we reached Tauberbischofsheim where we stopped for lunch at a cafe run by a guy called Christopher O'Sullivan....yep, Irish, not German. One can tell. [nods knowingly]

Unfortunately, during lunch Norbert started to get a migraine which happens occasionally, so I sent him back to the car to sleep it off (which is the only thing that really helps) and set off myself to explore this little place. Isn't it funny how sometimes unexpected events can provide unforseen pleasures too, as I found a 'hidden garden' surrounded by ancient walls and flowing water. Just beautiful, and so peaceful! We set off again after Norbert felt better and arrived in Heidelberg at around 6:30pm.

Now I need to explain that Heidelberg was a place that I reeeeally wanted to get back to after seeing it 'oh so briefly' on our last tour of Europe. That time, we arrived when it was almost dark, walked across the old bridge, looked up at the castle....and were bustled back onto the bus. At the time I thought it was amazing and really wanted to see more. But now I realise that what we saw was the best part anyway, as the picturesque part of Heidelberg soon gives way to a big city and ordinary-looking suburbs spread out flatly and lacking in any real character. It was getting late and we had no accommodation booked so guessing that it would be hugely expensive in the 'pretty' part of Heidelberg, we drove on to an outlying place (probably more like a suburb really) called Mannheim and enquired at a hotel. Yep...they had a room but it wasn't cheap and it certainly wasn't big! Just enough room for the bed actually...but quite comfy for the night.

Friday - cruising by ancient castles, and fighting tourists to see them!

The teensy room was made up for by the huuuge breakfast spread, so we ate enough to ensure we wouldn't need lunch. [grin] Go on, admit it....I bet you've done that too when you've been away, haven't you! [points her finger] ROFL

Anyway, we checked out then headed back to 'pretty' Heidelberg'...see the photo below - isn't it just gorgeous!!! Like stepping into a land of fairies, castles and wicked witches in dark forests.

Anyway, as luck would have it, as soon as we got to the riverbank there was a cruise boat about to leave in 2 minutes! What luck! Jumped on board just as they pulled the ropes in, and proceeded upstairs to the deck where we could enjoy the sun and watch the glorious scenery roll past. What luxury...and how relaxing! The cruise went through 2 locks, lifting us a total of about 6 or 7 metres, and as we were travelling through the Neckar Valley we were surrounded on both sides by buildings 'climbing up' the slopes, and castles perched on rocky outcrops. Just gorgeous!

The cruise took an hour and dropped us in the little river-side village of Neckarsteinau where we had a cappuccino in a little coffee shop overlooking the river. Oh, and I watched a woman dust her front fence, and sweep the street in front of her house. Not just the footpath...the street itself! Everything here is soooo neat and clean and tidy, and I guess this must be one of the reasons - the residents seem to have such a strong desire for tidiness and order, and a work ethic to support it. Hey Mum? [winks]

In the afternoon we went to see the famous Heidelberg Castle....or Schloss, as they are called in German. One needs to climb about 375 steps to get up the hill but we made it....and hopefully wore off some of the breakfast! :-D The castle was old, beautiful and interesting with breathtaking views across the Neckar Valley and beyond. BUT, it was the first time since getting here that we came face to face with 'tourism' again.....large bunches of American and Japanese tourists being herded around by slightly weary looking tour guides, and myriads of shops selling T'shirts saying "My friend (mum, brother etc) went to Heidelberg and all I got was this lousy T'shirt." You know the kind. [sigh] But we did see the 'Apotheca Museum'...which is the history of the pharmaceutical industry from the dark ages until now. It might sound boring (I can see you rolling your eyes Skye) but it was all laid out in authentic 'sets' and very well done....even English explanations.

We drove on to Pforzheim...and found it was yet another big city so basically just skirted it and escaped out the other side. Don't get me wrong...we don't have anything particular against cities but we saw most of the 'major' tourist attractions in the cities last time we were here, and this time we were here to see some of rural Germany and more of the hidden and out-of-the-way places. Anyway, we'd made the decision not to stay in cities so as we were driving through a little village called Unterreichenbach, Norbert saw a 'Zimmer Frei' sign, and quickly chucked a lefty!

Note: A momentary break here to explain 'Zimmer Frei'. It means 'Room Free' and is a sign one sees a lot as you travel through Germany. They are usually displayed on a Gasthof or Gasthaus...which is an inn in the old meaning of the word.....a place for travellers to have a bed for the night, breakfast, and then go on their way. They are often very small and are usually run by a family. They are cheaper than hotels and you get the advantage of a homely feel and being welcomed by friendly hosts who are generally very pleased to see you as your stay helps with their income. Same sort of thing as a 'Pensione' in France and the traditional B&Bs in England. They usually include breakfast in the price.

Anyway, we were welcomed warmly and shown to a lovely room with a gorgeous view....at a price 30 Euros less than the hotel in Heidelberg.

Saturday - strolling through sunny village markets enjoying Currywurst und Eis.

We are using a borrowed 'Fodor's Germany' travel book to give us clues as to interesting places to see and travel routes to follow. Admittedly it is dated 1998 however we figure that a castle that has been standing for 800 years isn't likely to fall down, and a waterfall isn't likely to change its route in 10 years. So far its been pretty good except it recommended a place where you can see original garden gnomes being made traditionally, and apparently that is a thing of the past since the cheap Chinese imports. Oh well.... [sighs]

Anyway, we followed Fodors recommendations through many little towns and were pleased to come across Bad Liebenzell. Incredibly pretty place. We set off through the forest and before long were listening to the sounds of birds and the gentle rustling of leaves...and of course our own huffing and puffing. [grin] If you love the silence of a bush setting then you will appreciate this feeling, its just that here the trees rise absurdly straight and tall above the leafy forest floor and the views are of tiny villages with red roofs that have stood in place for hundreds of years. Its different, in a timeless sort of way, but just as quiet and tranquil. And then you walk 20 metres in a different direction and find yourself on a street, as the little houses climb right up the mountainside! Watched an elderly woman pushing a wheeled walking frame up one of the streets....now that would keep you fit!! [laugh]

It was Saturday of course, and it seemed that every town had a Saturday market in their Marktplatz, usually in the old part of the town. Picture cobbled streets dotted with flamboyant umbrellas, and displays of colourful flowers, fruit, vegetables and other wares laid out for sale. There was local honey from the forest, and little stalls to buy wurst and other delicacies. We had coffee in Calw just watching all the activity go by, and lunch was a Currywurst on a paper plate, sitting under a tree in the market place and watching hausfrau buy colourful flowers for their window boxes.

By the way, its not just the houses....window boxes adorn every part of the little towns including along the railings of bridges and overways. We saw a council guy come and water them. It makes everything so pretty though!!! [spins in a circle with her arms spread wide]

In a little place called Zavelstein we followed a Fodor's recommendation and wandered down a street to see a tumbledown castle. We weren't expecting much but we really enjoyed it as one could go down into the cellar and climb the tower...AND there were only another couple of tourists there so it was peaceful and we had many areas to ourselves. Just one of those 'finds' which are unexpected but provide great pleasure and many memories.

The 'market mood' continued through the afternoon, and at Freudenstadt we bought some glazed pumpkin seeds to try (yumm!!!!) and then decided to sit at a pavement cafe to have 'ein Eis' (icecream). But the sky was getting grey and before long, drops of rain began to fall so we made our way back to the car. Unfortunately it didn't stop. Can't complain as we had enjoyed beautiful weather up till then, however the rain made driving on the mountainous roads even more challenging and we couldn't really stop to look at things.

We did try to go to Glaswaldsee which is a mountain lake however by then the rain had really set in and despite standing momentarily in front of the sign pointing to the lake with umbrellas over our heads, we decided against it and thought we'd call it a day and look for a 'Zimmer Frei'. Which we found just down the road....a gorgeous farmhouse just ouside of Gutach, set against the mountain! Once again we were welcomed warmly and the lady seemed surprised but pleased that we were happy to take the room sight unseen (its quite OK to ask to see the room first). She said it was 38 Euro for the night including breakfast for both of us, so I was expecting it to be very basic .....but wow!! A beautiful and spacious room with stunning views, balcony and a private en-suite! What a bargain!!!! Here's a photo (above) ...what do you think?

Sunday - delighting in the Schwarzwald's version of Sovereign Hill.

Enjoyed a farmhouse breakfast which was laid out for us when we went downstairs, including boiled eggs and little pots of jam and what must have been home-made cream (we could hear the cows outside). OK...they didn't have a toaster but the lady tried her best and heated my gluten-free bread in the oven. Norbert thought the price was too cheap for what we got so when we left he gave them 50 Euro and refused to take the change and they waved goodbye happily as we drove down the long driveway to the main road.

We discovered that the place we really wanted to see was only a few minutes away so this was a good time-saver. Which was great as we spent quite a bit of time at Vogtsbauernhof. Picture something like Sovereign Hill in Ballarat....have you been there? No? [grin] OK...its a small 'town' of historical buildings from various Black Forest regions and from the past 400 years, all fully furnished and with some live displays such as broom-making, embroidery, felting etc. Its sort of like walking through a living history. You come up to an amazing old 3-storey house and you can actually walk inside and sit at the dark, aged wooden table. There are real cows munching hay in the barn and old tools and farm implements on the walls, looking like they were just put there yesterday when the farmer finished using them. Some of the buildings are replicas but many were actually completely authentic and had been dismantled and re-built on this site....an amazing feat in itself! Like to go on a virtual tour? I found one here for you, if you're interested. The photo above is of a comparatively tiny house which was often built on the main property for the 'old folks' to retire...so the photo is of me saying "Mum, welcome to your retirement home!" [big grin]

But this visit really fulfilled a major objective for our weekend. [sudden intake of breath] Good grief!! I sound just like some sort of project manager! [hits her forehead with the palm of her hand] Bad enough having an executive summary but next thing I'll be talking about strategic plans and measurable outcomes! Obviously I need to stay away from work a little longer. [laugh] Nevertheless, the weekend did fulfill a major objective as we had such a brief taste of the Black Forest on our last tour, we were determined to literally 'soak ourselves in it' this time...and the outdoor museum did this extremely well.

In fact, we were talking about a place that the bus stopped last time where there was a huge cuckoo clock....and lo and behold, we ended up driving right by it about 5 minutes later! What's the chances!!!! We then stopped in Triberg as they have the highest waterfall in Germany there....and while we didn't make it to the top, we enjoyed a special time listening to the sound of a man playing a traditional Alpine Horn to the backdrop of rushing water. The rest of the town was a bit 'touristy' though, so we moved on to Titisee where there is a beautiful mountain lake. Incredibly picturesque....but cold!!!

We decided our last stop would be Freiburg which is getting close to the French border on the west....but we needn't have bothered. Once again it was just another city. In fact it was a 'university city' like Heidelberg and it made me wonder whether this is the reason for the plethora of McDonald's and Burger King outlets and cheap blocks of flats in these types of places.

But, it was nearly 6pm and we wanted to get home by nightfall.....and we were still about 380km away from Fulda. No problem! Straight onto the major Autobahns which, we found out, don't allow trucks on Sundays!!! Bonus! Mind you...we saw hundreds of them lined up in truckstops and parking areas, looming in a predatory way and ready to roll out and take over the Autobahns again on the stroke of midnight. But it was a dream run for us! Zoomed along averaging about 140kph with our GPS giving us plenty of warning when we had to take an exit....and pulled up outside the apartment right on 9:30pm when the sky was just turning pink and growing dark.

And so ends another successful side-trip! Norbert still has to work for the rest of this week but then I'm not sure what we will be doing. He has somebody lined up to take over the apartment but the agent hasn't gotten back yet (service is apalling over here) so things may be in somewhat of a disarray in the next couple of weeks. What will definitely change will be these blogs. Norbert is handing over the internet at the end of this week and the luxury I have now to spend unlimited time on writing blogs and uploading photos will be over. I'm going into cold sweats thinking about having to spend rushed minutes at a public internet cafe, but I'm sure most of you will be thrilled to bits that you aren't faced with 'War and Peace' just to catch up on what we're doing. Hey Heather? [cheeky grin]

I've been watching the weather in Adelaide and it seems its getting colder. Hope you are all rugged up and enjoying lots of hot chocolate and warm, winter food. I will be coming back a few kilos heavier so I want to fit in. [laugh]

Bis bald!
Marlene (and Norbert)